When I started planning our itinerary for our 15 day Yunnan holiday, I plotted out our path to go all the way up to Shangri-la, back down to Kunming and then to Jiaozi Snow Mountain and Dongchuan Red Land. Then I chanced upon a video of Aini Garden and fell in love! The only reason we came to Pu'er was to get to Aini. This was the first place I booked, and I really took a chance because it has a no cancellation policy and I really had to stick to the date once it was made.
The initial pre-arrival experience was less than pleasant. I didn't know how we were going to get to the manor and my WeChat messages went unanswered. The hotel we stayed at in Pu'er finally got in touch with someone and got them to message me. I asked how we could get there and the answer was a curt ”take a taxi or charter a car”. No pleasantries of ”we look forward to seeing you” or offering to arrange a car.
When we arrived, no one was at reception and no one came out. Our driver was so perplexed he wondered if we were in the right place and if the place was open. Finally a young girl came out and registered us in. There was an air of aloofness from everyone else. However, once we were checked in, things warmed up quickly. We were offered coffee and freshly cut papaya and had a nice introduction chat with the lady staff.
The bedroom and bathroom is well appointed, spacious and comfortable. We would have enjoyed sitting on the balcony if the chairs were more comfortable. I love the floor to ceiling glass windows but the panel above the door should also be glass (it is just netting) so traffic sounds from the road actually comes through at night. I actually wanted to book the cottage in the hills but opted for the standard room in the main house because I was worried it would be cold. Big regret as it is actually magnificently located with stunning views. However take note that you will need to call for a buggy ride or make a 1km hike every time you want to eat or get to the main house. If you are self driving, no issues as you can park right next to the cottage. Anyway it's a small price to pay for an unlimited view of the milky way and seclusion.
This is as close to a Ryokan experience as you can get in China, minus the hot springs. 3 days 2 nights of blissful, carefree living is not quite enough. They make sure they feed you well, with the freshest produce available for hotpot dinner and home-cooked Yunnanese dishes for lunch. There are so many activities organised, from taking you up the mountain for a glimpse of sunrise (with mountain goats for company ❤️) to coffee plantation education tour to horseback riding along the mountain ridges (the view is spectacular!) to scavenging for wild vegetables and fruits to drinking, dancing and singing around the campfire! So much to do, so little time!
One area of improvement I personally would like to see is the coffee serving. They tend to be quite snobbish about how their coffee is taken. Neat, with nothing else. Asking for sugar or milk feels nearly scorned upon. Coffee is a versatile drink and can be savoured in a huge variety of ways. How else is Starbucks so successful? I felt kind of stifled and deprived because I love a good latte and had looked forward to enjoying an unlimited indulgence of coffee throughout our stay.
Anyhow, I love the ecotourism efforts here. It feels natural and unpretentious. I love the people and the camaraderie they cultivate. I especially enjoyed talking to their consultant 敬梅, a beautiful lady with extensive knowledge in Yunnan culture and ecological progress. Also thank you to 徐芳 for arranging transport back to town and giving helpful recommendations. We hope to return again.
Eccezionale
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