Utente ospite
17 giugno 2023
Traditional Swahili architecture. Coconut palms laden with fruit. Vibrant bougainvillea dripping over verandahs. White frangipani. A golden tortoise in the garden. Delicious breakfasts in an open air dining room overlooking the boats and life of Shela. Evenings spent rocking slowly on a bed suspended from the verandah roof, gazing at the stars littering the sky after a dinner served by the most charming and gracious of staff. This is Kijani Hotel in Shela, Lamu. Lamu is the oldest Arabic settlement on the African east coast. An archipelago on the far north Kenyan coast, the town of Lamu itself is UNESCO-listed but could do with some massive inves**ent to protect and enhance that heritage. Shela, a 40 min walk up the path from Lamu (or a quick boda ride, or a boat commute) is smaller and more stylish but has not essentially changed in the 20 years I’ve been coming here. Motorbikes that ply between Shela and Lamu are the only traffic bar a tiny ambulance and a tractor. The nights are silent. Shela’s best -known hotel, Peponi, always written up as the haunt of glamour celebs and rich, bo-ho Europeans, is currently under reconstruction. Kijani is the next biggest, not that big means much here, but is more beautiful. There’s not a lot to do in Shela. There is a long, long and very hot beach; dhow evening sailing, superbly taught yoga at Banana House; lime juice, vegetable samosas and chocolate cake at Bahari House - all enjoyed while idly watching the boat life at the water-borne bus stop. But that’s the whole point. To stop. Savour. And be. This is a proud Muslim culture where the call to prayer knocks you out of bed in the early hours. A gaggle of Kenyan girls arrived, all micro tops, exposed skin and selfies. The next day they were all wearing white scarves. Lesson of respect learned. I was prepared to be disappointed at the changes wrought by the years. But there have essentially been none. Come. Be silent. Be revived. SafariLink flies to Lamu from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport and JamboJet from Jomo Kenyatta airport. Margie , Sydney, Australia. June 2023
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